DIY Mercury Glass Stars

A cheap plastic chopping board might not look like much in the shop, but a little paint and an aged printable can turn it into a lovely piece of vintage Halloween decor. This version pairs a charcoal-black finish with a tattered spirit-board design, a scrappy ribbon bow and a small crescent-moon charm.

I love the contrast between the dark painted board and the parchment-style paper. Leaving a generous painted border around the printable makes those torn edges stand out, giving the finished decoration the look of something discovered in an old farmhouse cupboard.

The printable already includes aged markings and a distressed outline, but we’re taking that a step further by physically tearing the paper before attaching it. Those little uneven edges make a difference, especially once they’re smoothed down against the black background.

Style your finished board on a kitchen bench with a cream pumpkin, a stoneware jug and a folded linen tea towel. It’s an easy way to add a witchy touch to farmhouse Halloween decorating without covering the whole kitchen in orange.

Skill level: Beginner
Making time: Approximately 1–2 hours of hands-on work, plus drying and curing time
Finished use: Indoor decorative display

What You’ll Need

• An inexpensive rigid plastic chopping board, preferably with a handle and hanging hole
• The vintage spirit-board printable supplied with this tutorial
• Ordinary matte printer paper, approximately 80–100 gsm
• Primer specifically compatible with your chopping board’s plastic
• Matte black or charcoal paint compatible with the primer
• Optional antique bronze or muted gold paint for distressing
• Matte decoupage medium
• Soft flat paintbrush
• Small sponge or dry brush
• Fine sandpaper, if recommended by the primer manufacturer
• Dishwashing liquid and a clean cloth
• Scissors
• Black lace and plum ribbon or torn fabric strips
• Optional crescent-moon charm
• Small display easel
• Protective covering for your work surface

Choosing your board: Some inexpensive chopping boards are made from polypropylene or polyethylene, which can be difficult to paint. Check the material and choose a primer that explicitly supports it. Ordinary craft paint applied directly to these plastics can peel, even after sanding. Test your primer and paint on a small area before decorating the whole board.

1. Clean and Prepare the Chopping Board

Wash the board with dishwashing liquid to remove grease, dust and any residue from labels. Rinse well and allow it to dry completely.

Remove any loose stickers. If the board has rubber grips or removable fittings, take them off where practical.

Prepare the surface according to your primer’s instructions. If light sanding is recommended, gently scuff the surface and wipe away all dust. Sanding alone will not make every plastic suitable for painting, so the compatible primer is the important part.

Protect your work surface before you begin.

2. Prime and Paint

Apply your plastic-compatible primer following the product directions, including its drying time and ventilation requirements.

Once ready, paint the board in thin coats of matte black or charcoal. Cover the front, edges and handle, allowing each coat to dry as directed. Paint the back too if it will be visible on your display stand.

Allow the paint to cure sufficiently before attaching the printable. A surface that feels dry may still be soft underneath, so follow the paint manufacturer’s guidance.

3. Add a Lightly Aged Finish

For that old farmhouse look, use a small amount of antique bronze or muted gold paint around the board’s perimeter and handle.

Dip a dry brush or sponge into the paint, then wipe most of it off onto scrap paper. Lightly dab the remaining colour onto a few edges and corners.

Keep the effect patchy. A little worn-looking colour is enough to frame the parchment without competing with the design.

Let this layer dry.

4. Print the Spirit-Board Design

Print the supplied artwork on matte paper using your printer’s A4 setting. Avoid thick cardstock, which is harder to smooth down during decoupage.

Measure the flat body of your chopping board before choosing your print size. Aim for the artwork to occupy roughly three-quarters to four-fifths of the board’s width, leaving a visible painted border on every side.

Keep the image proportions locked when resizing. The handle should remain uncovered, and the printable should sit comfortably below the bow.

Make a quick draft print if you need to check the fit.

Check your ink: Test a printed scrap with your decoupage medium. If the ink smears, use a compatible print sealer according to its directions or have the image printed with a process that withstands the medium. Let any sealer dry before continuing.

5. Tear the Edges for a Tattered Look

This is the step that gives the board its character.

Roughly cut away the excess white paper, leaving a little extra around the printed parchment outline. Then use your fingers to tear away the remaining margin in small sections.

Work slowly around the design, creating an uneven outline with a few shallow notches and irregular corners. Avoid following a perfectly straight line.

Leave the alphabet, numbers, moon, sun and “GOOD BYE” lettering intact. Make deeper tears only in the blank parchment areas.

If you find the paper difficult to tear, lightly dampen a narrow tearing line from the back with a barely wet brush. Keep moisture away from the printed details and test this method on a scrap first.

You can soften any bright white torn fibres with a tiny amount of brown distress ink or nearly dry brown paint. Allow the paper to dry completely.

Don’t burn the edges. Hand tearing and a little colour provide the aged effect.

6. Position and Decoupage the Printable

Lay the torn printable on the board without glue first. Adjust it until you have a pleasing painted border around all four sides.

Lift the paper away and brush a thin, even layer of decoupage medium onto the area it will cover.

Carefully place the printable onto the wet medium. Gently smooth it from the centre towards the edges using clean fingers or a soft protective sheet, taking care not to stretch or tear the damp paper.

Press each ragged edge down so it adheres flat. Add a little medium beneath any loose points.

Avoid repeatedly brushing or rubbing the same spot while the paper is wet. Let the attached printable dry as directed.

7. Seal the Paper

Once the paper has dried, brush a thin coat of matte decoupage medium over the artwork and its torn edges.

Work gently with a soft brush. Check that all the small paper points are secured, then leave the board to dry.

Apply further thin coats only as recommended by your chosen product. Allow the finish to cure fully before adding decorations or placing the board on its stand.

A matte finish suits the aged parchment beautifully.

8. Add the Witchy Bow

Layer a strip of black lace with plum ribbon or a torn fabric strip. Tie them around the handle, keeping the hanging hole clear.

Let the tails fall loosely, but keep them short enough that they don’t obscure the spirit-board heading.

Tie a small crescent-moon charm into the centre of the bow if you’d like an extra witchy detail.

For a more rustic variation, swap the plum ribbon for faded black-and-cream gingham or a strip torn from an old linen shirt.

9. Style Your Finished Board

Place the board securely in a small display easel on your kitchen bench, shelf or sideboard.

A cream pumpkin, neutral tea towel and stoneware jug of dried stems make a simple farmhouse arrangement. Leave a little space around the board so the torn parchment and dark painted border remain the focus.

Keep it away from the sink, steam and cooking heat. Dust gently with a dry cloth rather than soaking or scrubbing.

This finished board is for decoration only. Once painted and decoupaged, it should not be used for chopping, serving food or placing hot cookware on.

The slightly uneven paper edges are part of the appeal. Let them look handmade, keep the distressing light, and you’ll have a Halloween decoration that feels wonderfully old and a little mysterious.