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Simple Thanksgiving Display

November 8, 2010 by Amanda Formaro

This beautiful display is made from empty root beer bottles, wheat stalks and vinyl lettering. It’s a simple but lovely addition to your Thanksgiving holiday decor! Choose to Thrive has the tutorial here.

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How to Rust Safety Pins and Jingle Bells for Primitive Crafts – The Safer Vinegar and Salt Method

Learn how to rust safety pins and jingle bells safely using vinegar and salt. Create authentic rusty metal embellishments for primitive crafts, ornaments and farmhouse décor.

There is something rather lovely about a little pile of rusty safety pins and old-looking jingle bells. Brand new silver hardware can feel far too shiny when you are making primitive dolls, farmhouse Christmas ornaments, vintage-style gift tags or anything that is meant to look as though it has been tucked away in Grandma’s sewing basket for 50 years.

Of course, genuine vintage rusty bells can be surprisingly expensive, especially once postage is added. The good news is that you can create a convincing aged finish on inexpensive metal craft supplies at home.

The inspiration image for this tutorial suggests combining vinegar, hydrogen peroxide and salt in the same container. I would not recommend following that particular recipe. Vinegar and hydrogen peroxide can react to form peracetic acid, which can irritate or damage the eyes, skin and respiratory system. Occupational safety information treats peracetic acid as a hazardous chemical, not a casual craft-room ingredient.

Thankfully, you do not need the peroxide. Plain white vinegar, salt, air and a little patience can produce a beautifully mottled rusty finish without turning your afternoon of primitive crafting into an accidental chemistry lesson.

What Can You Rust for Craft Projects?

This method works best on uncoated iron or mild steel items, including:

  • Safety pins
  • Jingle bells
  • Small metal stars
  • Wire shapes
  • Washers
  • Nails and tacks
  • Metal keys
  • Chain
  • Tin ornaments
  • Small craft hardware

Some modern metal pieces have a protective coating designed to prevent rust—which is usually a very sensible feature until you deliberately want them rusty. Nickel-plated, stainless-steel, galvanised, painted or heavily lacquered items may rust slowly, unevenly or not at all.

Always test one or two pieces before treating the entire packet. There is nothing quite like sacrificing 50 bells to the vinegar jar only to discover they are apparently prepared to survive the apocalypse without developing so much as a freckle.

Supplies You Will Need

  • Plain steel safety pins, jingle bells or metal embellishments
  • White vinegar
  • Table salt
  • Warm water
  • Glass jar or non-reactive container
  • Plastic or wooden spoon
  • Fine sandpaper or a sanding sponge
  • Plastic strainer or old slotted spoon
  • Paper towel, old cloth or cardboard
  • Disposable gloves
  • Safety glasses
  • Clear matte craft sealer, optional

Inexpensive packets of plain metal safety pins and jingle bells from Amazon are ideal for experimenting. Check the product description for uncoated steel where possible, rather than stainless steel or rust-resistant metal.

Before You Begin: Remove Any Protective Coating

The most common reason a homemade rusting solution appears to “do nothing” is that the metal has been sealed or plated.

Lightly rub the surface of each safety pin or bell with fine sandpaper. You do not need to remove every trace of the silver colour. The aim is simply to scratch through enough of the protective finish to expose the metal beneath.

For jingle bells, concentrate on raised areas, edges and around the openings. Those little scratches give the vinegar somewhere to begin working and also help create a naturally patchy finish.

Wipe away the sanding dust before continuing.

Safer Vinegar and Salt Rusting Solution

For a small batch, combine:

  • 1 cup white vinegar
  • 1 tablespoon table salt
  • 1 cup warm water

Stir until most of the salt has dissolved.

You can use undiluted vinegar for faster results, but I find the diluted solution gives you more control and often creates a softer, naturally aged appearance rather than a solid dark crust.

How to Rust Safety Pins and Jingle Bells

Step 1: Place the Metal Pieces in a Glass Jar

Put the sanded safety pins, bells or embellishments into a clean glass jar.

Do not fill the jar tightly. The solution needs to reach the surfaces, and the pieces should have enough room to move when stirred.

Avoid using a favourite kitchen container. Even after washing, a jar that has hosted a batch of rusty bells is not something I would return to the pantry for homemade jam.

Step 2: Add the Vinegar and Salt Solution

Pour the prepared solution over the metal until every piece is submerged.

Give everything a gentle stir with a wooden or plastic spoon to release any trapped air bubbles.

Place the jar in a well-ventilated area away from children, pets and food preparation surfaces. Cover it loosely with a lid, saucer or piece of cloth to keep dust out, but do not seal an actively reacting container tightly.

Step 3: Check the Metal Regularly

Leave the pieces to soak for approximately 4 to 24 hours.

Check them every few hours. You may notice the surface becoming dull, grey or dark before obvious orange rust appears. That is normal. Much of the rusty colour develops after the pieces are removed from the liquid and exposed to oxygen.

Very resistant metal can be left longer, but I prefer several shorter treatments over forgetting the jar for a week and retrieving something that looks as though it came from the bottom of a shipwreck.

Step 4: Remove the Pieces and Let the Air Work

Lift the metal pieces from the solution using a plastic strainer, old spoon or tongs.

Arrange them in a single layer on cardboard, brown paper or several sheets of paper towel. Space them apart so air can circulate around each piece.

Do not rinse them yet.

Leave them outdoors in a sheltered spot or in a well-ventilated work area. As the damp metal reacts with oxygen, the rusty orange colour should begin to deepen.

Turn the pieces occasionally so both sides develop an aged finish.

Step 5: Repeat for a Darker Rust Finish

For heavier rust, return the dried pieces to the vinegar solution for another one to four hours, then remove and dry them again.

This soak-and-dry cycle gives you much more control than one extremely long soak. It also produces the uneven brown, orange and black tones that make primitive craft embellishments look genuinely aged.

You can repeat the process until you are happy with the colour.

Step 6: Stop the Rusting Process

Once the finish looks right, rinse the metal thoroughly under clean water to remove salt and vinegar residue.

For a little extra insurance, stir one teaspoon of baking soda into two cups of water and dip the pieces briefly into the mixture. This helps neutralise remaining acidity.

Rinse again with plain water.

The baking soda is used after the vinegar treatment, not added to the original rusting jar. Adding it too early simply neutralises the vinegar and reduces its effectiveness.

Step 7: Dry the Pieces Completely

Spread the rinsed pieces on an old towel or paper towel and pat away as much water as possible.

Allow them to dry completely. You can place them in a warm, airy position or use a hair dryer on a low setting. Take particular care with jingle bells because water can remain trapped inside.

Rust may deepen slightly as the pieces dry.

How to Seal Rusty Bells and Safety Pins

Leaving the metal unsealed gives the most authentic primitive finish, but loose rust can rub onto fabric, paper and fingers.

If your embellishments will touch pale fabric, quilts, dolls, gift tags or clothing, seal them with one or two very light coats of clear matte craft sealer.

Place the pieces on scrap cardboard and spray them outdoors according to the manufacturer’s directions. Turn them once dry and coat the reverse side.

Use a matte product rather than gloss. Shiny varnish can make beautifully aged metal look as though it has been dipped in toffee.

A clear acrylic spray such as the matte craft sealers available from Amazon is useful for protecting both the rust finish and the project it will be attached to.

How Long Does It Take to Rust Metal with Vinegar?

Lightly sanded plain steel may begin changing within several hours. A useful working estimate is:

  • 4–8 hours: Slightly dull, distressed finish
  • 8–24 hours: Noticeable patchy rust
  • 24–48 hours with drying cycles: Darker primitive finish
  • Several repeated cycles: Heavy, crusty aged appearance

The exact timing depends on the metal coating, room temperature, humidity, airflow and the finish you want.

Do not judge the colour while the pieces are still submerged. Rust formation needs oxygen, so the drying stage is often where the magic happens.

Why Aren’t My Safety Pins Rusting?

The Metal Is Stainless Steel

Stainless steel is specifically manufactured to resist corrosion. Choose plain steel pins instead.

The Pieces Have a Protective Coating

Nickel plating, galvanising, paint, lacquer and anti-rust finishes can prevent the vinegar from reaching the underlying metal. Sanding usually helps.

They Have Not Been Exposed to Enough Air

Leaving the pieces underwater indefinitely may not produce the rich surface rust you expect. Remove them periodically and allow them to dry.

The Solution Is Too Weak

Use less water or increase the vinegar concentration. You can also sprinkle a tiny pinch of salt over the damp pieces during the drying stage.

The Weather Is Cool and Dry

Warm, humid conditions generally encourage faster corrosion. Place the pieces somewhere warm and well ventilated, but do not heat the vinegar solution or place it near flames.

Can I Use Apple Cider Vinegar?

Yes, although plain white vinegar is cheaper, colourless and easier to work with. Apple cider vinegar may leave a darker residue, which can suit grungy primitive projects but may also make it harder to judge the actual rust colour.

Can I Rust Painted Jingle Bells?

Painted bells need to be sanded first. Remove enough paint to expose areas of bare metal, particularly around the edges and openings.

Leaving some paint intact can create a lovely chipped antique effect. Red, cream, black and faded green bells look especially good when patches of rust creep through the colour.

Can I Use This Method on Jewellery?

I would keep deliberately rusted metal for decorative crafts rather than anything worn directly against the skin. Rusty surfaces may be rough, can stain clothing and may continue to corrode.

For vintage-style jewellery, use commercially antiqued findings or create a faux-rust painted finish on properly sealed components.

Important Safety Notes

This is a decorative craft process, but it still deserves a little common sense.

  • Wear gloves and safety glasses.
  • Work in a well-ventilated area.
  • Do not use containers that will later hold food.
  • Keep the solution away from children and pets.
  • Never combine the mixture with bleach, ammonia or household cleaners.
  • Do not combine vinegar and hydrogen peroxide in the same container.
  • Dispose of the diluted vinegar solution according to local household waste guidance.
  • Wash your hands after handling rusty or chemically treated metal.
  • Do not use rusty safety pins structurally where failure could cause injury.

The peroxide-and-vinegar combination shown in many online rusting tutorials can create peracetic acid, a corrosive substance associated with eye, skin and respiratory irritation. Using the simpler vinegar-and-salt method may take a little longer, but it is the method I would choose at my own craft table.

Craft Ideas Using Rusty Safety Pins and Bells

Once you have made a batch, store the completely dry pieces in a labelled jar ready for future projects.

They are perfect for:

  • Primitive rag dolls
  • Gingerbread ornaments
  • Rustic Christmas stockings
  • Fabric hearts and bowl fillers
  • Farmhouse wreaths
  • Grungy gift tags
  • Handmade journals
  • Country-style garlands
  • Muslin angels
  • Patchwork ornaments
  • Fabric pumpkins
  • Vintage-inspired pincushions

Rusty bells would look lovely tied to the greenery on this primitive Christmas stocking tutorial, while a small cluster can be added to the ties on this primitive Christmas sack. Both projects already suit that wonderfully worn, slightly grubby country look—where wonky stitching is not a mistake but “primitive character.”

You could also add them to handmade fabric ornaments, tuck them into dried orange garlands or attach one bell to a safety pin with a scrap of tea-dyed muslin. Make a generous batch while you have the supplies out because rusty embellishments are one of those things you never think you need—until suddenly every primitive Christmas project looks unfinished without one.

 

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